Filmmaker in Search of Her Subject - visit to northern coastal Peru #3

part #3

It was also important to Luis Rocca that I understand that Afro-Peruvian culture, including its performance arts, has been heavily influenced by the indigenous cultures.  This is because of the close connection between blacks and indigenous peoples that dates back to the time of slavery, when blacks who managed to escape would live in communities in the jungle where they were in frequent and friendly contact with indigenous peoples. 

part of a collection of masks in the museum

Two other things of note from my time in Zaña:  I took a short, side trip to Cayaltí (in a jitney) to film a young man who performed a decima he had composed;  and I was surprised by how little African heritage still showed in the people of Afro-Peruvian descent in Zaña, unlike the population of el Carmen.  No one looked black!

the kid who recited his decima is wearing the orange shirt

The decima:  I only learned after the fact that the decima is a greatly respected poetic form used to comment on current events.  The word "decima" refers to the number of syllables per line.  The decimas are mostly composed on the spot, improvised;  but I have no doubt that the young kid had thought his out beforehand and them memorized it.

Finally, in Zaña, Luis Rocca took me into the home of a townsperson who was playing a game of skill with his neighbors.  It somewhat resembled horseshoes, and involved drinking a large amount of beer;  if you tossed and lost, you had to drink.  Lots of laughter;  especially when they insisted I try my hand at it.  I was NOT very good.

my hotel, the Don Juanito - more modest than where I stayed in el Carmen!

After we left, Luis Rocca explained that I was the first woman to be invited to watch this game.

a jitney in Zaña;  jitneys are very photogenic

 

cute towns-kids;  you've got to have cute towns-kids, right?

And so, having filmed many interesting things and seen things, some of which I would only later come to understand better, I took the bus cama back to Lima, filmed the documentary Masters of Rhythm with addendum, and returned to California.  A good trip. 

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Eve A. Ma, a former university professor, lawyer, and director of a non-profit cultural organization, is the producer-director of two documentaries about Afro-Peruvians:  A Zest for Life and Masters of Rhythm with addendum.  Sign up for her newsletter to keep up with her work and get a special video:  www.PalominoPro-signup.com